30 Jun Jonathan Cartu Support: an unusual and heartfelt beach life story
For some people, kindness and generosity have no price tag attached. This is the true story of someone who understood how a simple gesture could mean a lot to a fellow beach lover.
Beaches are sanctuaries of health, places where Nature heals us both physically and spiritually.
I have always felt attracted to the beach from a very young age.
The long, warm summers were certainly the perfect hook, but I learned to appreciate it all year-round as time passed by.
As a surfer, in the last couple of decades, I’ve been trying to follow the ritual and paddle out on International Surfing Day.
It’s like a healthy obsession.
So, every year, on the third Saturday of June, I tell myself I need to get wet and pay tribute to a sport that pretty much shaped part of who I am today.
In a self-analysis exercise, I tend to believe that the best of me was molded through surfing, the constant connection to the ocean, and the solitary act of waiting for the waves to appear on the horizon.
But that is of less importance to the reader right now.
June 20, 2020: International Surfing Day
Everyone who is blessed to be alive in a year like 2020 knows what a fresh breath of air means in times of isolation, lockdowns, confinement, and physical distancing.
I’ve been one of those who decided to take no risks.
I’ve played it conservatively – not because I was afraid – but because I thought it was the right and wise thing to do, and the best way to protect my family.
Nevertheless, three months after the beginning of the nightmare, I started planning strategic surf sessions in uncrowded surf breaks.
On June 20, at 8:30 pm, I paddled out at Leça da Palmeira beach, an urban stretch of sand on the outskirts of Porto, a stunning and cosmopolitan World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Leça da Palmeira has an interesting role in the history of surfing.
In 1927, the Portuguese Army’s Cinematographic Service shot a 32-minute film featuring several aspects of the local economic, social and cultural life.
However, it was a 28-second excerpt that caught a local writer’s attention.
Somewhere in the middle of the black-and-white footage, a group of 12 individuals is seen riding bellyboards.
Because the film was shot between 1926 and 1927, it was considered the oldest known surf film in Europe.
The Late Afternoon Session
Anyway, nearly 100 years later, I was paddling out with the sun already low on the horizon.
It was late in the day, but the stars seemed aligned.
There was no wind, the waves were glassy, and the water’s surface looked as shiny as silver.
At 8:30 pm, there were a handful of surfers in the water, and the vibes were cool, relaxed, and welcoming.
As I waited for the next set, I observed a giant orange ball of fire, getting ready to hide behind the skyline. “What a glorious day,” I said to myself.
But the best was yet to come – outside of the water.
Around 30 minutes later, I rode my last wave toward the beach. I was happy, and my soul had been uplifted.
In the last minutes of the session, I noticed someone was pointing a camera toward us, the surfers in the water.
So, when I reached the wet sand, intrigued, I decided to ask the photographer a question.
“Hi. Do you think you could’ve taken a photo of me riding one or two waves? I would love to have a souvenir of this wonderful day,” I asked the young man.
“I don’t know. Maybe. I’m not a professional. I am just starting to learn how to take photos,” the man replied.
He instantly began browsing the pictures on his camera and showed me a few. Perhaps I could be lucky.
Apparently, there were some in which it looked like it could be me.
“Listen: In nearly 30 years of surfing, I haven’t got many photos of me surfing. Do you think you could send them via email? I am willing to pay you for a couple of shots. It would mean a lot to me,” I supplicated.
“Sure. But I don’t want money. I’m still learning how to shoot,” the man replied.
I insisted I wanted to pay for the shots he had, as a courtesy. But he kept saying no.
So, I thanked him, said goodbye, and headed back to the parking lot.
As I got to my car, I contemplated one of the most beautiful sunsets I had seen in years – what a day.
A Heartfelt Surprise
Two days later, at 11:49 pm, I received an email from someone I did not know. The email was sent by Renato Marins:
This is Renato. Is everything alright?
Well, it took me a while, but I managed to check out the photos from that day. They are not very good. I think that of the four sessions I did there, yours was the one with the worst photos. LOL.
Nevertheless, I found a few good ones, and I am sure that’s you in some of them.
If you’re interested, keep in touch, and I’ll show up for another session to try and shoot more. It would be great for me to practice more.
It’s hard to describe what I felt when I opened the folder shared online by this Brazilian guy.
There were three beautiful photos of me surfing with the sunset as a backdrop and a couple of extra shots featuring myself, patiently waiting in the lineup for the next set.
I looked at them for several minutes in awe, like a kid, after receiving the best gift…